If you're heading to Yusupov Gardens from Sennaya Square, prepare yourself for inevitable ominous atmosphere of Dostoevsky novels: the most "grass-roots" of the central quarters, no matter what was done with it, in fact never changes.
"Òàêå ten underpants for ten rubles" trade goes on; specific people from the near market walk around; it smells of roasting; reckless musicians play guitars and accordions; mentally ills roam the city streets. At the narrowest point of the pavement, there for sure will stand at least one ice cream tray. Note the corner lane between Sennaya and Sadovaya, the former Tairov Lane: here Raskolnikov was hailed by prostitutes, and even now, despite the virtuous bourgeois shops, that spirit is still alive.
All these can be considered a difficult road to paradise, because against the background of all above mentioned, Yusupov Garden really looks like a paradise. The Garden is part of the once vast mansion of Yusupov family with the palace (one of the many Yusupov palaces), the main façade of which fronts Fontanka. Today this building houses the Transport University and even climbing the stone stairs is prohibited.
Prohibitions is a special issue of Yusupovsky Garden. Outside the gates, the way it should be, visitors are greeted by a stand with the rules and these rules (remember decorative mode of Tavrichesky Garden) deserve a special attention: they leave the visitors with the impression that driven to despair administration endeavors to civilize the savages. Besides prohibitions common for all gardens, Yusupovsky prohibits: hanging ropes and swings on the trees; horseback riding and biking; digging out the trees and shrubs; placing ads and announcements; trading with hands, trucks and cars; lighting camp fires; damaging benches and garbage canes.
The birds are very funny: drakes and ducks busily walk on lawns and proudly swim in the pond. For people, swimming in the pond is officially prohibited, although when you look at the muddy water, the desire – even if you had any – vanishes away. However, the pond is very beautiful, like entire Yusupovsky Garden.
The garden looks surprisingly good from every angle and is decently cared in spite of surrounding specifics: the layout of Giacomo Quarenghi defeats time and entropy. Expressed relief, alley curves, lawns, and this pond with the island, which is spanned by a bridge, the palace in the background: all look like a painting.
The picture can be evaluated properly on a rainy day, when most of the people leave the garden, raindrops fall into the water and ducks stroll in the grass. There are enough benches here, but visitors prefer to sit on the grass over the pond banks. Another nice detail: right beside the entrance blooms an amazing golden bush. After the stone walls and flavors of Sennaya Square this golden plant seems like some sort of marvelous mirage.
Author: Anna Dorozhkina