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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia: Day Four
April 5, 2014 23:58


The forth day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia started with the show of the project CONTRFASHION, the main aim of which is the support of the young talents. Presenting their avance-guard collections, this projet helps them to claim about themselves in the worlds of fashion and to show their creative potential.

CONTRFASHION is opened for the incredible experiences, everything that is brand new, unusual and eccentrical, and this project exists nowhere in the world but in Russia. The collections presented became a way to express the designer’s point of view that explains the specifics. The first one to present her own collection was Olga Plenkina. With the super-large skirts, colorful cone-formed collars, surrealistic head-dress, not matching the definition of traditional hats or hoods.
After that there came a presentation of the collection of Julia Kosyak. Costumes white as if taken from the movie about postapocalyptical world, without any colorful inserts. According to designer himself, her items-transformers could change the silhouette and form, transforming from avance-guard looks into casual things.

The next designer demonstrating her work became Julia Razina. That could become visible on some items, many-leveled «tails» of the jackets, open-work inserts and many-leveled long skirts of a heavy cloth. Grey was the main color of the line, although the male looks were fulfilled in dark and light blue spectrum.

The last designer to present her collection was Julia Cezar. Graceful simplicity, monotonous white combinations of a sophisticated cut, reminding Japonese designers of avance-guard. A video appeared on the screen right before the collection’s demonstration, created for the public to understand the main designer’s idea.

Marina Makaron

During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Marina Makaron presented her new collection fall-winter/2014-2015 called «Chocolate and mint». The new work of the designer was inspired by the classical men’s costume and by the fall nature in the country. While creating it the designer use the natural spectrum of the fall shades: chocolate, dark khaki, wheaten, beige. In this line there was created an image of a woman-cosmopolit, that could easily combine her private life being dressed elegantly at the same. The designer was keeping the classical English traditions: body conscience silhuettes, simple cut – the purposeful and graceful images could be seen on the catwalk. The main feature of the clothing and accessories of the brand of Marina Makaron is that all the elements are hand-made, including the engraving buttons and the cloth of the foundation. It’s worth mentioning the Italian materials, of which the items of the brand were made: soft cashmere, thin wool, silk with author’s geometrical ornament. The collection included the mix of classical and European forms and of eastern materialism.


While creating his new collection Oleg Biryukov was inspired by the works of the French artist of Russian origin Nicolas de Staël. His amazing destiny, the sense of composition and color, the language of the fine art and «brand grey» are close to the designer. The inspiration by the fine arts – it’s now one of the main tendentions. In Biryukov’s collection is has found itself in colorful prints in silk dresses and skirts, the coats with the golden lurex threads, contrast siver ornaments on the black tops. Skrts-godet and the jackets formed the graceful silhuette.

The spectrum of the collection was pleasant: indigo-blue, eggplant, lilac, emerald, biege – monotonous coats and blouses perfectly matched the colorful items of the wardrobe. The collection was light but graceful and elegant at the same time; the clothes by Biryukov one could wear for a party of for a casual reason. The show ended with a model in a streaming golden dress of a thick cloth draped on the back with the soft folds.


The new collection of a Georgian designer was filled with the national air and the spirit of time. The models with the turbans on their heads, rign-earrings and smoky eyes, eastern ballades as a soundtrack - the atmosphere of a magic night was achieved as well thanks to the long atlas dresses gleaming as purls in the light. Asymmetrical cashmere coats made a perfect combination with the dresses of a thick cloth; woolen sweaters of a thin knit hand-embroidered with the flowers and the tree brunches – intellectual reserved special chic, that’s why the public adores the designer.

Long cardigans, thin scarfs, that were presented both in male and female looks; the longed silhuette is the main line feature. The open evening dresses of velvet, atlas and lots of paiettes came along with the vests of reserved colors: brown, brick color, griffel-grey. The show ended with a model in a black dress with a deep cut behind, handing a long chiffon tippet that was used as a train.

lena tsokalenko

Lena Tsokalenko – the Belorussian designer and the constant participant of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. While creating her new collection fall-winter/2014-2015 Lena was inspired by the warm fall of Italy. Under the piano music the models seemed to be drifting though the catwalk intheir graceful dresses of light essential materials of deep colors: dark-purple, lilac, creamy. In tow looked there could be distinguished small polka-dot. The collection could be perfectly characterized as «cosy». Thin sweaters of essential wool on long streaming chiffon dresses, cashmere coats, jackets and silk as if domestic trousers and robes. White woolen hats were the main accents, knitted mittens matching the sweaters, valenki and ruff boots.

St. Petersburg brand Pirosmani one more time presented an integral true to the brand’s traditions collection. The designer uses one of her favorite materials – neopren, that allows to work with a cloth as if with a paper and to construct the sophisticated forms. In the brand’s bais is the concept of Antipodium, where fashion is considered as a kind of art: without borders, time or seasons.

Jenya Malygina, the designer of the brand, pays the special attention to the facture: ruff «crumpled» leather, soft drapes, torn cuts, trosers with the cuts and volume trenches – Pirosmani created the items for the creative brave people who allow themselves to appear on public in architectural costumes both in the office and in the party. Practically the whole collection is made in black-and-white spectrum – nothing else distracting from the forms and design. Pirosmani differs. The items from Jenya Malygina, are always actual, and they are out of world tendentions at the same time.

Julia Nikolaeva
The main feature of the work of Julia Nikolaeva is sophisticated construction and an eye to the details, and it found it’s reflection in her new collection fall-winter/2014-2015. Volume quilted coats, bell-skirts of the same cloth and the «crumpled» facture. One of the brightest accents were «the threads», appearing in different colorful variations on the collars of the coats, bracelets or detachments on the clutch. The marine theme in long horizontal lines on the white background were presented in the collection as well: under the dark blue electric bomber we could see a sailor’s shirt. It couldn’t go without a metallic cloth: elements of the overcoat and silvery accessories gave the spicy futurism to the line.

Igor York and Olga Brovkina Presentations
Igor York
March 30 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia the collection of purses and accessories from Igor York, the founder of the brand. The new line is called «Colorful filds», and the designer was inspired by the series of the paintings «Multiforms» by an American artist Mark Rotko, the founder of the abstractive expressionism All the accessories are hand-made and they are of essential materials.

«In all the purses one can see the elements from the paintings, and follow the artist’s thoughts as well. One of the basic ideas is to create minimum two colors in each purse. The main principal of my works is the form’s simplicity. You can see the clutches, belts, backpacks, laptops in different variations. All the items are in several copies. My purses are unicversal. Mainly I keep the unisex style, but while working with individual orders, I pay attention on the client’s desire and I make the accessories buyer-oriented».

Olga Brovkina
Olga is a talented designer, who started her creative way in 1994 from the victory on the international contest of young designers in Ireland. Her new collection is devoted to the process of transformation of a caterpillar into a colorful butterfly. In the center of a showroom there are manikins with clothing in a special order – from volume oversized coats hiding the figure up to the long silk dress with a colorful print. According to the designer the collection is really symbolic. Velvet facture, spectrum – the designer compares it with the insects.

«I was inspired by a unique scientific story. Natural process of a transformation. It takes a lot of efforts. The paradox is that nobody helps the butterfly to appear. This is a really philosophical story. It’s as well about the women who take a lot of efforts to overcome the borders. When it’s ghard time and you want someone to help you you need to remember that it all depends on you to get the butterfly wins».


Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Russian Fashion Russian Fashion Designer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia   

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