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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia: Day Five
April 7, 2014 01:23


On March 31 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia there was a demonstration of a new collection fall-winter/2014-2015 of the dress studio «KhakaMa», that is a co-project of a public figure Irina Khakamada and a designer Helena Makasheva. The new collection appeared to be the whole union: notwithstanding the variety of looks, the designers were able to reveal the main idea throughout the show.

Slight changes from the volume triangle mackintoshes and pencil-shaped checked skirts in terracotta with vertical basques up to pastel-pink coats, woolen mittens and ruff-knitted snood scarfs. Pink plays an important role in the collection. The designers were able to change the color association, traditionally compared with the feminity: black sac backpacks, ruff boots, straight silhuette helped to understand the graceful but unsweetened looks.

The brand is famous for being fond of androgen silhuette, but this time the designers have changed a little their traditional attitude, including elegant shirt-dresses in their collection along with bell-formed midi-skirts. The bright pink fur was the main accent.

Julia Dalakian

Collection fall-winter/2014-2015 of Julia Dalakian was devoted to depth of human soul and the wisdom of the nature. Absolute feminity typical for the brand this time gets stricter geometrical forms. Thick cloths, closed silhuettes – it was all created to reveal the main idea of the collection – the essential humain desire «to close» from the others, keeping his individuality at the same time.

Mathematically equalized constructions, correct combinations of forms and colors. Although, the designer has kept the habitual accents like open-wok inserts, crepe-satin and knitted lace, this time of deep swampy-green – the dominant shade of the spectrum. The show ended with a model in a streaming silk dress of smoky-grey shade that gleamed in silver.

Bunker Z

The show started with the collection by Ekaterina Ilyukhina. Red and grey spectrum, womanly dresses and skirts, lots of flounces and drapes. The most memorable was the dress with a contrast lemon insert and the print with black bird’s silhouette and the jacket of thick material of architectural cut. Universal and wearable items, both casual and for a bright look.

Marpha Fyodorova presented her collection Don’t stop street fashion. Her inspiration was London’s street fashion and the Londoner’s style – bright without compromises. Juicy colors – light-orange, sunny red, lazure, lemon-yellow and neon blue – they remind of the night city lights. Checked volumwe coats of tweed, comfortable oversized wide-striped pullovers with an elegant knitted ornament on the sleeves and asymmetric yellow skirts with an airy chiffon train, embroidered with the paiettes. You could also see the dresses of the thick cloth on the catwalk – tweed and flannel – on the sweaters and skinny trousers. Volume silhuettes, typical for the 80-s, and lots of levels typical for the grange 90-s. Neon accesories: clutches of plastic glass on the toy plastic chain . The afro-wigs on the models were a perfect addition to the show

Margorita Babodgianian

The collection Proud And Free was created for the women, who first of all value their freedom and the opportunity to show their individuality. The main materials were tweed, leather and chiffon. The symbol of Proud And Free is an eagle, that’s why he uses the hand-colored plumes in looks. The chained accessories, black leather inserts, «eagle» print, along the skirt of the dress, and the domination of vinous-red spectrum – these images are hard to forget.

Marina Maris

Marina Maris collection is called «The black agate». The designer was inspired by nature and by natural color of the stones, that found it’s reflection in gleaming cloths, state-pencil grey ornaments and wide sleeves, that reminded the wins of a butterfly.

The materials were essential and mixed. The author «plays» with a form, facture and plastic form. The main peculiarity of the collection was the specially created author’s print and «bon-bons» of agate, as a hairstyle decoration.

Chapurin for Barbie

The muse of the XXth century – the famous Barbie-doll – has been the inspiration and continues inspiring the world’s best designers for the creation of original looks and fashionable collections. This year this long designer’s list fond of Barbies added Igor Chapurin. Capsul collection Chapurin for Barbie aws presented during the official programme Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

The main features of the collection, including the author’s point of view on the stile of a famous doll, became the graffiti, minimum of decorations and monochromic spectrum. Classical trouser suits, silhouette dresses, «cut» with long contrast stripes and, of course, the fuchsia, as the main attribute of the wardrobe of a doll by Mattel. The reference to a classical new look– the accent on the waist and bell-skirts. For Chapurin looks demonstration along with the professional models there appeared the kids on the catwalk, that wasn’t surprising, speaking of a «toy» theme.

Dasha Gauser

Folds, interlacing, many-leveled drapes. This time the designer was inspired by the birds:by their silhuettes and grace. Two-colored coats with long sharpened lapels, the swallow prints, leather jackets of ochre. Architecturals cut of the coats, straight dress of a gleaming leather of swampy-green shade – all of these things, notwithstanding their constructive style and ruff facture, could be worn anywhere. The basic spectrum was milky, ideally matching the bright colors: green and orange, emerald and beige, menthol and brown.


The new collection of a brand Ruban included distinguished features of a fashionable brand: the sophisticated cut and surprising decicions. Many-leveled trapped dresses with lots of flounces, huge side pockets detached of fur and short aprons, overcoats, straignt trousers, bustier-dresses.

Transparant cloths, straignt, a-shaped silhuettes and of course the coats, the visit card of the brand: this time from a colorful leather and cashmere.Asymmetrical woolen knitted sweater with an opened shoulder is one of the most interesting and universal parts of the collection. The main line colors: pistachio, warm-pink, olive, creamy and lilac.


The designer, famous for his unusual attitude to the runway show, this time rejected the traditional from once again. Instead of the catwalk the models were walking through on the hall’s rowas. In his new fall-winter/2014-2015 collection Bessarion presented the silhuettes of the 60-s of geometrical cut and form, the dresses with volume flounces on the sleeves and the basques, long black godet dresses. Standing collars, asymmetrical triangle cut skirts, caps and long leather jackboots – the collection was between futuristic avance-guard and the classics of Renaissance.

Olya Shikhova and MASTERPEACE by Evgeniya Linovich Presentations

Olya Shikhova
The presentation of the collection of Olya Shikhova March 31 during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia in the hall of «Manezh» there was the presentation of the jewelry brand Olya Shikhova. Olya Shikhova – a regularly participant of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, she specializes in accessories and creates amazing jewelry. In her new collection Olga revealed the theme of natural beauties of the Siberian Area. Her accessories have a deep semantic inside and the spectrum is close to the Arctic Ocean. Deep blue is mixed with the light blue and silver gleams. The jewelry by Olga Shikhova are distinguished by their unique technique, created by the designer herself.

Olga comments on her collection: «I use only quality materials in my jewelry: Swarovski-crystals or simply beads of glass of quality work. I often order them abroad, I specially search for the factories, producing what I need».
The designer broadened her necklace line, created the new models of earings and bracelets of different froms. A famous fashion-blogger Sophie Eliseeva became the face of the collection.
The presentation MASTERPEACE by Evgenya Linovich

During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia there was presented a new collection MASTERPEACE by the designer Evgeny Lynovich. The main feature of the jewelry MASTERPEACE is a sense of humour and the irony towards the fashion. The main brand’s idea is in the interpretation of the traditions of folk art in modern version.

«The new collection is called «War and Peace». While creating it I was inspired by the treasure rooms of the musiums of military sources and the navy. We’ve used a lot of elements of a male military costume: for example, the ribbon of Honor, that we added with the pearls. The collection has epaulets, shoulder straps, hussar uniform decoration, but it’s all made of stones and considered as a jewelry», – says Evgenia.

«I am not really fond of lapty, balalaika or kokoshnik, but that kind of «feature» existing in our folk art is like an umbrella, like Alexander Shumsky (add. – the President of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia) says, it’s an amazing cover for each designer. That’s what unites us», – mentioned the designer as well.


Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Russian Fashion Russian Fashion Designer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia   

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