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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia: 2-nd and 3-d Days
April 8, 2014 00:16


(Source: http://mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru)

Sitora Makhmudova
The second day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia started with a debute collection of a young designer Sitora Makmudva the winner of the DHL contest. Creating this collection she was inspired by the crane-bird and it found its reflection in the clothes construction and in such details as the plumes in the high model’s hairstyles. The celestial theme appeared as well with the facture – the futuristic dresses of silver cloth with the transparent inserts, black cloth with lots of shining details creating an image of a starry sky. Wide golden stripes, contrast piping, triangle v-formed cuts gave the collection the air of constructivism. The basic line spectrum was vinous, grey, golden and black-and-white as well.

 «Fashion Laboratory» of Vyatcheslav Zaitsev

The collective show of fashion lab was the fantasy flight itself. You cannot name the items of the young designers universal – it is no doubt to be called avance-guard. The public warmly accepted provocative complicated images and awarded the show with applause. The show started with three images with the unique cut: bell-bottomed black skirt, a helmet on the head with the sharp thorns, cocoon reminding a sleeping bag, asymmetrical skirt buttoned-up on the shoulder on the white blouse. The designers amazingly work with the materials as if with the paper. The sophisticated collars remind of origami. They were diluted with the feminine long dresses of a thin cloth that was streaming and waving in the air. The accents of the collection became the dresses of polyethylene with a hood fully covering the face of the model and the combination of many brunches entwining into sophisticated mosaics was added by the model’s hairstyle in the form of “horns” The flat hats-crepes were presented in many looks It’s worth mentioning as well the jockey costumes in two kinds of spectrum: dark blue and swampy-green. The accessories mainly were presented in marine shades: light blue leather belt with assimmetrical clips and bright-turquoise scarf.  The final defile of the models was under the cover-version of Radioactive sang by William Joseph, that made a special mood for the show.

Zalina Verkhovskaya

The first independent show of the graduate of British High School of Design owas inspired by the esthetics of the 90s: the slight version of many time-vectors – deconstruction and sex-provocation – it all found its reflection in print denial for the clear color and mat surfaces. Transparent bodies with long sleeves, skirts and trousers with the high waist – clearly-blue and the colors of the nude spectrum.. Square pockets, crop-tops and bell-bottomed sleeves – the details helping fully explain the designer’s idea.  In the end of the show Zalina presented long atlas skirts in tree main colors: black, fuchsia and white.

Yasya Minichkina is the young Ukrainian designer who presented her collection for the first time during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. The graduate of Central Saint Martins, in 2012 she founded her own brand that is widely known far behing the borders of Russia and Ukraine. Creation the new fall-winter collection the designer wanted to create the universal items but at the same time stylish and “sharp”items that respond the European elegance and are ready to be worn every day. In this fall-winter collection /2014-2015 there were presented the trapeze and accordion-pleated skirts, bombers, the silhuettes taken from the 60s and the sport chic of the 90s. The key accent was place on unusual materials: unique Japanese triacetate and ecological polyamide greatly combined with chiffon and silk. Long stripes that were presented in practically all the models helped to change the accents in the collection. Vertical on blouses and horizontal on dresses and skirts, these stripes gave the silhouette the completed look and the contrast with the back zippers as well.
Among the spectrum there were white, orange, pink, ultramarine, dark-green, bronze, purple and black. As for the accessories Yasya has created the series of backpacks that completes the image of a modern independent girl. The show ended with the unique models made of net.

POUSTOVIT

European posters of mountain skiing resorts of the 50s, the graphics of vintage bills and cards, it all became the basis of Poustovit. Retro motives could be seen in the cut, it triangle cuts, contrast colorful combinations, geometrical elements and the polka-dot print, although in modern context – with the metallic shine. The major item became the long dress in different variations: long, midi, body conscience and strait along with the volume jackets and sweetshots. Gentle shades of pastel-lime and light blue appeared at the end, changing dark coral and black-and-grey spectrum. The special attention is worth paying on the music of the show – the instrumental melodies helped to feel the atmosphere.

 Laroom
During MBFW Russia the show of Russian brand Laroom was held, it was founded in 2010 by Evgenia Legkodimova. The philosophy of the brand is based on keeping the feminity and grace in any circumstances. Thin trousers, accompanying the dresses and the skirts, gave the volume and layers to the look. The main feature of Laroom collection was the way they played with the facture – volume blooming applications, open-work, netted lace. The designer tried to look from the different point of view on the stories of Little Red Riding Hood and Snow Queen. Fur muffs, caps, banquettes on the skirts of the dress – these colorful details created the fairy-tale atmosphere on the catwalk. The basic spectrum is white, lemon, mint, pink and the deeper shades like plum and emerald.

 GOSH by Gosha Kartsev with the support of “ArtKvadrat”

The designer following “norm-cor” style this time presented minimalistic collection in “sport chic” style, where he used just the essential materials: cotton, wool, wood. Sweaters with author’s mark “”, “”, patriotic soundtrack – the designer was inspired by the 90s and by the architecture of Moscow. In his collection the couturier used black, two shades of grey, white and dark blue. Wooden accessories like crosses was hand-made of Kamchatka fur-tree and notwithstanding its originality it matched the whole collection. Elena Krigina was responsible for the make-up, and the hairstyle was by the creative director of Chop-Chop Nikolai Rish.

Yulia Prokhorova. Beloe Zoloto.

March 28 Julia Prokhorova presented her collection for the Fashion House «White Gold» that was called Euphoria. The show was under the support of the partners of the fashion House – weekly magazine Grazia, internet portal AnnaRusska, TV-channel RU.TV, gym’s net World Gym. Collection fall-winter/2014-2015 was really in brand’s air. Netted cloth, comfortable knitted fabric, open work in dresses, long trains and round sleeves cultivate feminity which is the main brand’s aim. The major spectrum of the collection is – white, red and warm grey. White furry mittens, as un unchanging attribute of Russian style really match the collection. The creation of Euphoria was inspired by the Summer Garden in St. Petersburg. On the catwalk there was created a part of this garden with marble statues and meshed construction.

Katerinafee
The collection Katerinafee, opening the third day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, was inspired by famous architect Antonio Gaudi. Like his works, that, according to the designer, remind the smooth stones, the collection is based on wavy lines and streaming silhuette. While creating there were used only essential materials: silk, cotton, thin wool and astrakhan. The spectrum included creamy shades, sandy-yellow, light blue, khaki, bronze. Jackets made of quilted cloth, massive accessories, small «goose clutch», two-colored trousers as well and specially emphasized clocks on skirts brought interesting accents to classical looks. In the end of the show there was a demonstration of evening dresses.

A. Box for TVT

Architectural cut and strict silhuettes as a way to express self-individuality. The designer compares his collection with a white church Boa Nova in Portugal, that is based on contemporary style and it’s maximally functional. The interpretation of the last architectural trend in the language of fashion found it’s expression in sophisticated silhuettes, clear colors and asymmetrical cuts. Exaggerated vestes, reminding of cosmonauts uniform, bell-dress, corset with a basque and a blouse like a blown away balloon – it’s the new version of classics by Aleksey Korobeinikov.

Maria Golubeva
During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Maria Golubeva presented her new collection fall-winter /2014-2015.
The show started with four models in cocktail dresses of golden colors, they were carrying the new portable devices of «ASUS» – the general runway show’s partner. Streaming lines, drapes, simplicity and locanicy, amazing in its completeness – bohemian chic became the main collection’s theme. The designer pays most attention on nude color, that helps to show the beauty of female beauty. Chiffon dresses with a long train, furry muffs and collars. A thin jacket made of fur became an interesting detail as well as a coat of light nylon and geometrical inserts.

RIA KEBURIA

Ria Keburia founded her brand only two years ago, but the items by this Georgian designer have already won public’s love and attention. While creating the designer was inspired by the Japanese stylistics and by the works of the designers from the country of Rising Sun. The demonstration of fall-winter collection differs from a traditional one. All the show was in military concept, which was reflected in each aspect. Soundtrack and lighting: red lights of the catwalk together with rhythmical reminding a march soundtrack created a feeling of an upcoming and threat. Caps together with the skirts of thick cotton cloth with well-distinguished vertical lines of dark color, horizontal cut on the skirt – all these details responded the esthetics of deconstructivism. Vinous sheepskin coat with monochromatic trouses, a wide cape-coat and many-leveled tops diluted the obscurity mood of the collection. It’s worth paying attention on the models hairstyle: small curves with colorful inserts, - and shoes: rugged boots with open backs and open silver wires. Ria Keburia has claimed herself one more time as a representative of «posttime» design.

N’Kolykhalova
Winter Olympic games in Sochi has become an impact for the creation of a new collection N’Kolykhalova. The colorful code of the collection is tree-colored Russian flag. The show demonstrated the oversized coats of knitted wool with opened seaves and big side pockets. The front accents were places on the collars, Trimmed by the exclusive white fur of a polar fox, colorful fur-coats, silk flowerred pajamas-overalls. Lots of paiettes, massive golden accessories and gleaming zippers, along black mini-dresses – evening looks were equalized by sportshoes, that reminded of the main collection’s idea.

BLANK SPOT by Shivaji Dutta (India)
The foreign guest of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Shivaji Dutta presented his new collection fall-winter/2014-2015 to Russian public. Shivaji Dutta is an Indian designer from Calcutta, he founded his brand in 2009 and called it BLANK SPOT. The clothing by Shivaji Dutta is made of unused and already used materials, being secondly born in his new collection. He pays special attention to the second usage, and not on recycling, because the last one means spending lots of energy. Knitted dresses-sweaters, shortened leather jackets, high collars, slanting zippers, unusual inserts of thick knit on the back and geometrical leather elements for overcoats are the main features of the new collection Stricct and reserved male line – tight trousers and classical suits. The main feature of the collection is the combination of soft cloth and thin leather. The images presented are distinguished by the classical cut and the monolith silhuette. The main spectrum is black, turquoise, red, ochre. The public was amazed by the volume mohair women’s jackets with a contrast print. The brutality of the collection was emphasized by the rugged leather boots, lots of side contrast zippers and dark make-up shades.

 Igor Gulyaev
For the demonstration of his new collection «On the edge» Igor Gulyaev has used a double catwalk, that was held in two halls of “Manezh” at the same time. 30 looks were presented to the public and each of them responded the designer’s style. The image, drawn by the designer, presented the laconic prerevolutional Russian style and essential sophistication of the European modern. The designer thinks, that the formula of a true attraction lies in body conscience silhouette together with the graceful forms and returns back to the noble fur. The collection is full of juicy colors: emerald, indigo, purple, vinous, turquoise, aquamarine – they are all associated with the precious stones. Dresses, coats, items of fur, blouses and skirts, making the collection’s basis, they create the image on the edge of classics and avance-guard. As says the designer himself, his work is first of all based on emotions.

LITKOVSKAYA

Fall-winter collection of Litkovskaya is based ion the idea of the contrast between old and new. The designer paid her attention on Paris chic and made the experiments with the symbols. The gleaming cloths with lurex, golden brocadein contrast with techno genic graphics, leather and jacquard wool. The massive forms of male-silhuette coats presented on the show. The designer continues following the city minimalism in asymmetrical free-cut dresses and architectural costumes. The bright accent of the collection was the dress of a thick vinous velvet, that was almost falling apart. Strict leather tops were decorated with the bows of streaming silk, and the plums of marabou could be seen on the bustier-dresses and on jerkins.

Ma Ya
The last show of the third day was by the brand Ma Ya, different by its stylistics from the others. The habitual white catwalk has turned into a black gleaming surface on which the models were moving through the darkness with no light but the projectors. The main accessories were the turbans, the white pearl lines and the massive pendants, gleaming in light as if the precious stones. The streaming dresses with the long trains reminding the tail of a peacock, naked backs, covered just with the pearl lines, colorful shades, changed by calm creamy and white, created the atmosphere of a real Arabic night. The susprising accents were the furry inserts. The whole show was under the Indian mantres, and the final look was the combination of a white body, covered

 Presentation Georgy Rushev
Georgy Rushev – a young jewelry designer from Ekaterinburg. His brand was founded 6 years ago and by this moment it has won the attention of Aidan Salakhova, Miroslava Duma and Evelina Khromchenko. Gosha has collaborated with Alena Akhmadulina and BeSSarion. Georgi does not only work with metals and half-precious stones. The designer combines unusual materials for the jewelry – fur, rubber and plastic. All the jewelry is unique and hand-made with no copies by an exclusive technique. Presented during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia new collection was fulfilled in abstract expressionism, inspired by works of Jackson Pollock.  The similarity with the painter’s heritage is in massive jewelry of the designer, the paint spots are brightly distinguished in the necklaces and bracelets. Georgi Rushev speaks of his collection: «Modern art is the main sorce of my inspiration. This season these are the paintings by Jackson Pollock. I really like the way he works with the colors. While creating I took a unique embroiling as a basis, and it has become the main peculiarity of the brand, I mostly covered the items with the matt paint and added the stones. As a result there appeared a mix – I created something new, keeping the concept of the brand at the same time. This time we created a more commercial line – the items presented here could be worn every day. In prices they became more available».  In the nearest future they are planning to rerun the new version of the internet shop Georgy Rushev.
 
Presentation of Belarus Fashion Week
Designer’s Presentation of Belarus Fashion Week «Belorussian Fashion Planet» () and Meredes-Benz Fashion Week Russia have been giving the Belorussian designers for five seasons already a unique opportunity to present their collections during Meredes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. March 29 in «Manezh» three brands were presented, well-known and popular in Belorussia Apti Esiev – excentrical belorussian designer, the creator of the brand APTI EZIEV, presented his new collection called SHADOWS to Russian public. A unique peculiarity of the brand is male and brutal style. As for the material the designer mostly uses leather, clips and chains. «In this collection I tried to open my inner world and to show what I wear in my everyday life. A fallen shadow would never be yellow or red, it’s always dark. I’ve chosen black as a basic color – it’s a color of power. My clothes is created for the modern youth, ready for new doings. My audience is free and knows no edges». The brand APTI EZIEV was created 8 years ago. The new collection was presented on the 10 of April during Belarus Fashion Week.
 

 


Sources: http://mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru 

Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Russian Fashion Russian Fashion Designer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia   

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