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Fourth Day Of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia (31st Season)
October 25, 2015 00:52


The fourth day of MBFW Russia opened with a collective runway show of Slava Zaitsev Fashion Laboratory graduates of various years. Galina Biryukova designed a line of catchy looks, featuring audacious duos of slim-fit leather bottoms and tops, combining several textures and fabrics, and using interesting color solutions. The collection included kids wear too: coats with bright geometrical patterns decorated with minuscule pompons. Olga and Anna Kameneva displayed their line of outfits in light shades: semi-transparent fabrics were combined with knitwear, and long royal robes with mini-shorts. Designer Ekaterina Aslamova demonstrated her Inside Out collection featuring red-and-black color combinations. Every model walked the runway with a flower in her teeth: the collection introduced the image of a woman-rose, beautiful, but dangerous. The central look of the show, the crimson wedding dress, was also true to femme fatale style. A malachite-colored jacket combined with a perfectly shaped voluminous white skirt highlighted Aura collection designed by Natalia Matveeva’s M7 brand. The collection also included a line of magical dresses, ranging from maxi to shorter ones, and two looks: a delicate mint dress with discreet white wings and a puffy ballroom gown in an genuine color solution (with gradations ranging from black-and-white shades to all the hues of emerald-blue).

The British Higher School of Art and Design presented a graduation show BA(HONS)FASHION. Golovina was the first to demonstrate her collection, highlighted by soft glimmer, airy designs, hints of transparence, and decorative prints. The next designer SASHA FEOKTISTOVA’s collection featured pastel hues, fringes, and incredible trimmings. Kate Shtepa expressed her vision of the brutal Moscow architecture: mainly white-and-grey color range, geometric prints, and sharp lines underline the original beauty of the city. Anna Kreydenko’s collection reflects the surrealistic aspect of the Moscow Metro: most looks are sporty, yet sensual. Anna Tsykunova represented megalopolis neon lights in her patterns, and the mainly black color range contributed to the collection’s eccentricity. Marina Rainina based her designs on metallized fabrics, relaxed fit and unusual prints with leitmotivs of elements of quantum physics and cosmic processes.
Runway show of the best graduation collections (Fashion Design department of the British Higher School of Art and Design) opened with KATYA PASTUKHOVA minimalistic fringed leather dresses and geometric maxi sleeveless waistcoats. Gaito opted for sapphire-colored flax with lacing and camel coats-robes, which are much like Bedouins’ djellabas. EUGÉNIE FIÈRE MAISON demonstrated skirts with split folds and a silk floor-length coat with a small pattern print, whereas A SHADE MORE painted the show with blood-colored turtleneck sweatshirts and basic men’s shirts. Formal cocoon coats with silk lining and a loose dress with a V-cut on the back were featured in the collection designed by Sonya Shvalts and her brand So/essential, while the key elements of the MAROUMOTO show were sculptural chestnut and ash-grey men’s leather jackets.
The next on the runway was BELLA POTEMKINA with her Spring-Summer 2016collection. The designer tried to find the formula of the Russian soul in the design of the tricolor flag. A model in a stunning white, blue and red dress opened the show, followed by girls in weightless sarafan summer dresses, costumes, provocative short tops and shorts, along with family-look outfits. The collection’s fabrics are lace, sateen, velvet, chiffon, silk, and neoprene, adorned with embroidery, sequins, and pearls.
VERA KOSTYURINA took inspiration for her collection from Alice the dreamer from Lewis Carroll’s books, the March Hare, the Hatter, and the Cheshire Cat. Right on the catwalk, designer showed how to transform silk organza dresses and flowery pelerines into minimalistic sheath skirts and summer coats with sashes. The English theme could also be traced in men’s three-piece suits, badged blazer jackets, and shirtfronts jokingly depicting one of the fairy tale’s characters. A reference to the tea party may be spotted in a cotton knit top that resembles a starched table-cloth.
Ruby arrows of DIMANEU collection glittered in models’ hair; these dynamic moves were supported by the pointed sleeve cuffs, which resemble Russian airplanes’ wings. Angular silhouettes of the dresses made in Russian tricolor, protective dark-blue, white, and bright red, reminded of the Kremlin stars. The runway show was followed by a patriotic theatrical installation: a ruby star was solemnly raised and put on top of an improvised Spasskaya tower.
Diana Kvariani brand (Georgia) showcased blouses with bows combined with trouser suits, followed by sky-blue and dust-pink wrap dresses. The concept of calmness and serenity went through the collection like a fine veil, depicting only rare bright graphic accents on skirt hems and cape coats. Patterns and prints reflecting peaceful perception of the world turned into a light ornament on semi-transparent fabrics.
The next show was by Yuri Pitenin and his brand Saint-Tokyo. In the DNA of the brand is the fusion of Oriental and European cultures, their clash and mutual penetration. The collection featured a line of looks inspired by Hellenic culture, hence the color range, and Japanese aesthetic binding technique called shibari. Semi-transparent designs with crisscrossed bands of fabric, leather jacket matched with a sequin-decorated skirt, a red dress with its top made of translucent gauze: every detail and every accessory is filled with sense. Menswear featured thematic T-shirts and grey and black color combinations.
Tarik Ediz brand (Turkey) demonstrated a collection of evening gowns: dresses with trains and multi-layered skirts matched with glittering tops, playfully shimmering in light. Every design has incredibly sensual shades and details: delicate pink, champagne, aquamarine with magnetic stripes of artful silver, embroidery and sequins. A line of four black dresses deserves special attention: they are perfect for an evening cocktail. A delicate wedding dress with finest details and an incredible train closed the show.
TV host and designer Oksana Fedorova showcased the new Spring-Summer 2016 collection of her brand OKSANA FEDOROVA, Design Studio by Oksana Fedorova. New collection turned out to be very feminine and delicate: Japanese cherry blossoms are in bloom on milky-pink fabrics, and the lemon-yellow hue is tamed by a white, fine, spectral haze. Aristocratic mermaid maxi dresses richly decorated with glass beads were shown along with flowery casual cotton ones. The designer demonstrated her skill with various shapes and textures: the line featured an orange corset combined with a voluminous dark-blue skirt.
PIROSMANI BY JENYA MALYGINA runway show closed the fourth day of MBFW Russia. The collection features daring outfits, unusual accessories, revealing low cuts, buttoned-up capes, bulky jackets and audacious realization of conceptual ideas. The main color is black, with rare droplets of expressive red, soft grey, white, and silver shine imitation.
The showrooms of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia saw presentations of Outlaw Moscow, LIZA ODINOKIKH and PUNK ART project launched by the Moscow Institute of Industrial and Applied Arts. Outlaw Moscow outwear collection features the clash of Shanghai street fashion and Moscow down-town style highlighted by lacquered leather letters ‘Who gonna stop me?’ on classic A-shaped coats. Cold-proof satin bomber jackets were decorated with golden cranes, olive-colored men’s slytex parka went along with a woolen cropped dress: all outfits are made in one-piece copy.
LIZA ODINOKIKH’s Spring-Summer collection draws attention by crazy color range and unusual accents. Lush tweed suits, interesting cloud and cats shaped prints, sunny coats and dresses: St Petersburg based designer is tired of greyness and creates her designs in bright colors. PUNK ART project launched by the Moscow Institute of Industrial and Applied Arts showcased riveted leather jackets with applications in form of celebrities’ portraits.
Offside presentations were held as part of the 31st season of MBFW Russia: that of My go shirt, clothes made of organic Indian cotton with beach prints, and a closed runway show of Georgian designer Ria Keburia’s collection.

Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia     

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