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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fall-Winter 2018: Day 4
March 14, 2018 09:14


(Source: http://mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru)

Day four of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia offered a diverse cast of designers to the delight of more than two thousand attendees. Most of the shows on this day were packed with viewers, so it’s important to find out exactly why.

A fresh and energetic start to the shows was presented by the collective show by the students of Moscow’s HSE Art and Design School, and titled H.A.R.D 004. Youth Forever  (this being their fourth collective showcase).

While an avant-garde remix of Lady gaga, Mujuice and young Russian singer Grechka set the aural stage for this young and conceptual collection, the MBFW visitors were treated to, a show of great talent and promise by the students of the HSE School.

First, deconstructed capes and ponchos made of recycled fabrics filled the runway, then oversized trenchcoats and tulle capes with the collection’s name emblazoned in bold lettering, then even more deconstructed garments, with long tendrils of fabric flowing behind the models. A lot of what was shown could still be classified as modernist streetwear, but with a definite avant-garde feel to it.

 Looking forward by using brave cuts and fresh combinations of fabrics (for example, traditional silk dresses with clear plastic jackets) yet also having a certain malaise for the past, represented by the amount of recycled parts and stretched-out vintage pullovers - that was the theme of the show, it seems. An eclectic and vibrant show of what’s ahead for Russian fashion by the HSE students.

The energy was kept at a maximum at the next show as well, as NASTYA NEKRASOVA presented her new collection.

A Krasnodar native, Nekrasova has been producing garments since 2010, launched her first boutique “Realno” in 2013, started up her own school of design and fashion in Krasnodar in 2017 and throughout has managed to remain subversive and wild at what she does.

One of the constant themes in Nekrasova’s work has been the work of the Athens sculptor Leochares, who lived and produced his work in the 4th century BC, but this was far from a stately classical show - UK grime and Azealia Banks provided the soundtrack for the show, and in fact the only things that reminded one of Greek classical art was a 3D rendering of Leochares’s work in the background of the stage and the theatrical cardboard masks the models wore on the runway today.

These bore an image of the eyes or the face of a sculpture of a Greek youth, and were so large in size that they created a very unusual shape to the silhouettes we saw. As for the garments themselves, we saw a lot of classical in those as well - silk and wool numbers, free and flowing shapes, oversized sleeves (as if from an antique theatre costume), and busts models carried underarm.

But this was a collection by a young Russian designer, so a little modernism was unavoidable - skirts with abstract scribble art and high leather heels spiced up this avant-garde collection.

 A brave romp through a Russian rave scene was up next, with a new collection by N. LEGENDA. The brand was created by the titular Nikolay Legenda and Olga Kapitonova, who founded N. LEGENDA in 2013, with an overall drive to create garments that could be defined as “dramatic minimalism”, with a desire to break gender norms along the way.
 
With loud EDM blaring in the loudspeakers, it was quickly evident that this collection harkens back to Young British Artists and the rave revival movement, with bold typefaces on the belts and accessories, tweed shirts tied around the waist, puffy sleeves for both girls and boys and a penchant for comfortable, oversized clothing. Quilted fabrics in coats and jackets, black-and-white patterns across all the looks and several shimmering designs made from fabric that changed color from puce to blue under the runway lights made this rave party a wild success.

A Fall-Winter 2018-2019 collection by OKSANA FEDOROVA DESIGN STUDIO was what the visitors saw next, with the former Miss Russia and Miss Universe and current head of Moscow’s Museum of Fashion presenting a slew of sleek, clean outfits to the public. Fedorova is a true Renaissance woman - a model, a philanthropist and a designer, and her experience showed this time. Paying tribute to the classics, Oksana’s Studio is never afraid of experimenting, creating exclusive fashion perfectly fit to everyday life as well as for the red carpet. 

Laconic and beautiful lines, golden-brown coats and dresses, gold sequins, shimmery evening wear - everything here signified class and dignity. The color palette stayed straightforward - golden tones, black and white, dark emerald green, deep red and subdued grey. 

The collection also had a casualwear segment, with velvet one-piece jumpsuits under oversized sheepskin coats (“dublenkas”), puffy quilted jackets, small leather jackets and simple, elegant and beautiful looks for a true inhabitant of a modern metropolis.

ANASTASIA KONDAKOVA - a common face on Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia - presented her new collection up next. A modern designer unafraid of experimenting, Kondakova made her name with her trademark “night-to-day look” which inspires her garments and easily transforms from a cocktail number to a day look. Another of her inventions is the adjustable cut around the chest, which allows the chest to breathe freely and expand within the garment. Kondakova uses classic materials, such as silk, cotton and organza in her dresses, and sources her fabrics from Italy, UK and France. This time, Anastasia has shown us a decidedly English collection, with brimmed countryside and Mary Poppins hats tied with bright ribbons, British public school-inspired dresses, one-piece dresses that gave the models a youthful look, and combos that could easily be worn at a cocktail party as well as in the office.

One of the most sought-after tickets that evening were passes to the new show by KETIone, a brand by Keti Topuria. The mainstays of Topuria’s collections – crop tops, evening dress with impressive neckline, voluminous jackets and narrow skirts - were present today. Keti relies on sensuality and, at the same time, is focused on minimalism – clean cuts, a minimum of decoration and the combination of pure, contrasting colors. This time Topuria was inspired, in her own words, “by the rhythm of the big city”.

She definitely has a knack for color theory, with light salad and soft millenial pink colors combining beautifully. Sometimes she threw a mauve neckerchief into a pocket of a baby-blue overall look, which made all the difference. Little salad-colored vests and tiny blue miniskirts gave the whole collection a beautiful and playful feel. The colours were so pure and well-matched, that it gave the whole evening a refreshing feel. The cut of Topuria’s garments was also impressive, often leaving the shoulders open or opening up the cleavage, which made the entire collection beautifully sexy and charming. A beautifully-crafted collection for the young, and the young at heart.

Rounding up the day was a special treat - a big showcase of the fashion from Uzbekistan by Nilufar Abduvalieva’s brand MURSAK. Mursak is the traditional female dress in Uzbekistan, and today we were treated to both its classical and modern versions. Nilufar founded her brand in 2013, and had been using traditional Uzbek craftsmanship methods in her work ever since. The ethnic patterns and beautiful dresses dazzled the mind - Abduvalieva presented an entire smorgasbord of looks in all shapes and colors. Most were emblazoned with national Uzbekistani motifs or ornaments, while others sported gold inlays. Several beautiful bridal gowns were also presented, while two traditional Mursaks finished up this big day of eclectic runway shows.

12storeez



Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fashion Futurum Russian fashion buy Russian designers  

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