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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fall-Winter 2018: Day 5
March 15, 2018 17:14


(Source: https://smsstatus.ru/kollekciya-s-xarakterom-igor-gulyaev-osen-zima-2018)

The final day of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia at the grand building of Manezh came and went, bringing with it the most beautiful and well-attended shows of the week.

The Wednesday started off fast and flashy, with a collective show by the leading educational fashion project in the country, REBEL SCHOOL. The project gathers best tutors in the country, producing truly unique results. This was no exception to the rule, with the collection being inspired by and devoted to the chart-breaking music duo from Russia, t.A.T.u., and their video for “All The Things She Said” - the soundtrack for the show. REBEL SCHOOL student presented a diverse collection of modern avant-garde streetwear, with designs ranging from oversize orange hoodies and capes and catholic schoolgirl outfits (as featured in t.A.T.u.’s music video) to comfy trousers and shirts, to Alice-in-Wonderland style dresses. One look was fully devoted to Vetements stylist Lotta Volkova and featured screenshots from Demna Gvasalia’s favourite muse’s instagram account as appliques. Color combinations were the traditional to streetwear black, orange, white and red, with several striking blue outfits in the mix. The show bended gender norms, with model Sima Kozochka coming out in a men’s prison robe inspired fit, while other female models wore stylish men’s suits. As the models did one final pass to Rammstein’s Mein Herz Brennt, this nostalgic yet upbeat collection became a great start to the day.

IVKA - the brand created by young Central Saint Martins graduate Anastasia Gassi, was up next. She began her career as an Abstract Expressionist painter. After that, inspired by some new rock tendencies, life experience and people around, she decided to continue her creativity in another way, and started IVKA in 2014. Gassi works with exclusive and natural qualities with focus on "less is more" and prefers rich materials, which give her collections an exclusive feel. Today she presented a subtle and beautiful collection that relied heavily on it’s color palette - dark, heavy undertones with light, airy main colors. Combining a soft green avocado color with black one piece leggings and using baby-blue hoary dresses with pitch-black leggings and ballet shoes was just one of the ingenious moves used in this collection. All of the dresses were purposefully high-waisted, which created an unusual silhouette. Other features of the collection were embroidered tops and dresses, which looked almost like sewn silvery crocodile skin, and finely-crafted ballet shoes which gave the entire collection a dreamy, touching air. A beautifully understated and perfectly created set of looks for Gassi.

Model and DJ Sasha Panika opened the next show, a presentation by the Saint-Petersburg-based brand ZA_ZA. Created by Yakutia native Alexandra Koryakina in 2011, ZA_ZA is notoriously avant-garde, stating its mission as “bringing something unexplainable to an explained world”. Koryakina’s collections have graced the runways of Milan and London, and now it was time for Moscow. This time Alexandra has shown us a vision of genderless future, with androgynous models walking out in flowing, beautiful garments that seemed to constitute a very diverse collection. Tan tweed and velvet suits, deep green velvet coats, wraparound coats, flowing rose-red silk dresses, pleather overcoats splattered with paint, as if portraying a starry sky. A beautifully crafted soft plush overcoat finished up this compact and varied collection in great style.

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Sultanna Frantsuzova


A trip into Russia’s well-established tradition of Suprematism was up next, with Moscow designer KSENIA SERAYA presenting a new batch of her well-known knitwear. A graduate of International Institute of Design and Marketing Polimoda in Florence, Seraya has launched her brand in 2013. Her expertise was well-shown today - re, grey and black were the course for the day, and suprematist compositions flawlessly integrated into this beautiful knitwear collection. Woolen skirts and comfy-looking patterned pullovers, thick sweaters and floor-length dresses, dusty-pink colored soft cardigans dazzled the imagination and impressed with the sheer amount of craftsmanship Seraya has put into this collection. A masterstroke - mismatched colored boots (black and red, black and tan, red and white etc) - completed the looks well.

 A grandiose concerto awaited the guests of the fashion week next, with a presentation by the designer NADEZDA YUSUPOVA and her SPERANZA COUTURE bridal brand. Four concert musicians cornered the runway, and played a fully-live dramatic medley of classical music and heavy metal on violins, violas and keyboards. Yusupova is, without a doubt, the most well-known bridal couturier in the country, and the founder of a vast network of wedding boutiques, “Wedding Rooms”. This was a true magnum opus, with models walking out in grand wedding outfits of finest silk, with flowing trains and long sleeves trailing behind them. Gold, white and the softest tint of cream were the colors she presented the guests tonight, with a low-cut neckline being a common feature. The collection seemed fairytale at times, with tiaras and circlets reminding us of Arthurian legend and Celtic myth. The second part of the collection featured soft pinks, sandy tones and bridesmaid dresses with elaborate patterns and embellishments. Yusupova saved the best for last - a wedding dress to end all wedding dresses, with a massive tulle hood and giant train and a bodice and skirt sewn so elaborately it resembled a craquelure work of art. A monumental vision of purity and beauty by the country’s leading wedding designer.

A fully-packed room expected the new collection by the golden child of Russian fashion, ALEXANDR ROGOV. The Voronezh-native stylist and TV host has a knack for attracting celebrity fans, and visitors such as Sergei Mezentsev and Philipp Kirkorov are a staple of his audience. A rock’n’roll soundtrack by Alice Merton and Tove Lo led the models onstage, and it quickly became evident that the collection will be as colorful and beautiful as can be. An eclectic mix of colors and techniques was used to craft this offering, with bold orange, purple, blue and green being the primary ones Rogov. Sporting wide-brimmed hats and fur elements on their pullovers and jackets, the models looked like the cast of an avant-garde western by Jodorowsky.  Floor-length fur coats, oversized pullovers and asymmetrical jackets provided a great second half to the show while color combinations like electric blue jackets and bright-yellow gloves made it a real feast for the eyes. Rounding up this feast of beauty and boldness were wool cardigans and little black dresses worn with the same brimmed hats (in pink and red) and bright leather gloves. A fabulous and brave collection of looks from one of the country’s favourite designers.

Finally, it was the turn of Bella Potemkina to show a fully-packed room of her faithful followers her new collection. The Surgut-born designer is famous in Russia for creating garments for celebrities such as Vera Brezhneva, Olga Buzova, Pelageya, Inna Malikova, Alyona Vodonaeva, Nastasya Samburskaya and many more. This day played host to many of her celebrity friends, such as Xenia Borodina and Aiza Anokhina.

A regal purple seemed to be on Potemkina’s mind this time, with finely-crafted short dresses of tulle and silk, gathered into many layers to resemble beautiful flowers. Sometimes the purple appeared in sparkling embellished coats, sometimes it was in a puffy glossy coat. When Bella strayed from the main color of the night, she ventured into soft pinks and comfortable black, with small peach fur jackets and beautiful gowns, sewn as a color palette - from mauve to light pink. Little jeweled clutches and headscarves gave the collection a very Blair Waldorf of Gossip Girl feel. The show ended with a fantastic gown of tulle that faded from deep purple through pink to light, soft beige. An incredible outing for NYC girls in the middle of Moscow and a great finale for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week  Russia 2018 in the Manezh.

Sultanna Frantsuzova




Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fashion Futurum Russian fashion buy Russian designers  

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