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FUTURUM MOSCOW: New Names of Russian Fashion
March 19, 2018 15:22

On March 15, young Moscow designers and brands presented their new collections in the Museum of Fashion.

As part of this collective show, visitors saw new collections by Veronika Kalneus, Morkovka, Emmy, Cosmologiya, Magnetic Wear, ZHARA, Sei Tu, IMPUGN, G/Os, Roma Uvarov, TONY NECHAEV, NAIDAL, 21dot12, Kirill Mintsev, OTOCYON, Nashe, Volchok, Lady Like Brand, HOVANSKIE, YULIA MAKOGON, Alexander Erokhin as well as presentations by Turbo Yulia, FAKOSHIMA, MOKUDODO, DOUBLEASTUDIO and Alkhanashvili. Let’s take a quick look at all the collections presented on this busy and exciting day at a new venue - the halls of Museum of Moscow.

VERONIKA KALNEUS presented a shiny and futuristic set of clothing, with models coming out with brightly-colored garbage bags in their hands. In fact, the collection has a theme of recycling and sustainability. Long raincoats and shimmery dresses were the primary feature of this first collection, which ended with a model coming out, phoenix-like, out of a futuristic garbage compactor. The voiceover informed us that Russia produces over 5 bln. tonnes of garbage annually, and made us think about the implications of the fashion production process as a whole.

MORKOVKA presented a bright and classic streetwear show. Hoodies and oversize coats galore, with acidic green and black being the primary colors. Some outfits brazenly parodied Gucci, some used soft velvet to give the sporty, light outfits a comfortable feel. The show ended with several capes and velvet jumpsuits which rounded up MORKOVKA’s collection nicely.

Next up, a fast and furious show by the brand EMMY, with bushy-haired models walking out to Yeah Yeah Yeahs’ Heads Will Roll, looking, as one editor noticed, “like angry librarians”. Patterned sweaters and warm jumpers were the mainstay of this collection, wooly skirts with primary colors of red and blue and knitted cardigans. A revolution dressed in wool and grandma sweaters and a fabulously colorful collection.

The COSMOLOGIYA show was up next, all retrofuturist outfits and bright, airy colors. Pure white vests and tops with abstract patterns of sky-blue and deep-sea cerulean. White fishnet skirts felt like a nice touch to this collection, which felt and looked like a scene out of 2001: A Space Odyssey. A refreshing look to the future, overall.

From the clean ozone layer of Cosmologiya to the brutal depths of a Berghain rave with MAGNETIC WEAR next, an all-male show of brutal ferocity. All black shapeless BDSM garments, tied with leather straps and sporting dangling cotton attachments, free-flowing black cardigans and oversize robes. One couldn’t tell whether it was a German techno party or a dark ritual, with many models wearing loose black cotton robes that gave them a majestic religious look. We can expect to see this collection at every Berlin rave this year.

The rave trend continued with a show by ZHARA, which featured many patterned garments, primarily in red and black, but this time the collection had a decidedly Parisian feel to it, with the looks more avant-garde than brutalist, and vogueing models showing their moves on the runway. Red coats with white striped shirts and jackets, red trousers and dresses - all was reminiscent of Vivienne Westwood’s early collections with Seditionaries.

SEI TU was up next, a well-color-coded collection made up of pink, silver and bright yellow. Jackets, skirts and dresses, coupled with a sew Summer accessories like wide-brimmed boleros, trousers that have optional unclipping seams on the side and bows and hair ribbons of a wonderful raspberry tone. A dreamy Summer collection for those hot Russian August evenings.

The show by IMPUGN featured several children’s looks, complete with ponchos riddles with stylized depiction of human eyes, beautiful trousers with Chinese dragon prints, dresses in ochre and green, and scarves and shawls for days.

Roma Uvarov’s collection was a beautifully crafted and classically Russian set of looks, with many older models (70+) present onstage. Uvarov used embroidered dolls heads, X-ray shots, and many other found objects in creating this fun and avant-garde collection.

Tony Nechaev presented a rap-inspired collection of streetwear designs, with modernist Japanese and Chinese graphic prints and a live performance by a rap duo. Bright colors like strawberry pink, red on white and gold suited this collection well.

An incredible conceptual show by 21DOT12 followed, with models wearing themed fits like a rocker with a giant middle finger printed across the back of his leather jacket, several Jewish travellers carrying menoras and suitcases, and even a couple horror-inspired looks with models using leather backpacks and accessories as makeshift executioner’s masks.

A bright and colorful collection by NAIDAL went next, with models basically dancing out on stage wearing rave and Japan-inspired outfits with classic rave club color palettes - purple and acid green, silver and black. This was no ordinary rave, however, as models fought and pirrhoueted as they passed one another.

A show by OTOCYON followed, with its trademark clean and simple outfits in white, beige and soft brown and a performance by a model painting white on pure white with a giant brush.

A very special show was up next by NASHE. Set to a loop of classic Russian folk song “Podmoskovnye Vechera”, it was more of a stage play than a show, with three silent models - one male and two female - telling a story with their bodies, all the time removing a layer after layer of beautifully crafted linen and cotton garments from one another, putting them back onto each other, dressing and undressing, until, after a dramatic breakup, a model was left alone, dressed in NASHE’s clean and perfect linen garments.

Next up - a show by the beloved streetwear brand VOLCHOK. Vasily Volchok-Rusakovich presented a beautiful vision for this season, working in his classic palette of black, white and prismatic hologram inserts and patterns. Shirts, jumpers and tees were embroidered with graphic prints of trees and other elements of street and skate culture.

HOVANSKIE and YULIA MAKOGON then presented two shows which played with decontrusting faithful formats - HOVANSKIE by using prints of geometric figures and MAKOGON by deconstructing the garments altogether.

All in all, this was the perfect ending to a perfect fashion week - a little avant-garde, a little modern and a lot of beauty and style. We can expect to hear much more from these promising young designers over the months and years to come, but for now that was the end of the Moscow fashion season - but just a bright start to a new era of incredible Russian fashion.

Buy Russian designers clothes:

Vika Gazinskaya

Olga Vilshenko


Sultanna Frantsuzova




Sultanna Frantsuzova

Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia Fashion Futurum Russian fashion buy Russian designers  

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