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Kargopol Wanders
March 24, 2014 18:35


In winter, in an ancient Russian town one can play ice bowling, see painted "heavens", learn about the art of modeling clay toys, go for fishing, listen to the magnificent church chants and visit the Northern Equator separating two oceans. In Kargopol every sound is clear and defined: the crunching snow outside the window tells about the frost, the sound of an ax about heating the sauna, snorting horses about riding the sleigh.

Melodic polyphonic ringing that spreads from the high Cathedral tower heralds the coming noon. Three-tiered bell tower was erected in 1778 to meet the procession of Yekaterina II with music, but the Empress never arrived to Kargopol. The reason why the highest visit was canceled had been forgotten long ago, but the architectural gem, decorated with gilded cross and the faces of wooden angels remained. A narrow spiral staircase goes up to the observation deck. The stone stairs were polished by the feet of ringers, pilgrims and tourists.

From 50-meter height everything seems a bit toyish:  houses with carved trims sprinkled with snow powder, helmet-like domes and spreading tree branches. On the square you will see Lenin's figure, little squatted, bending his arm as if he was getting ready to go for a dance. Behind the revolutionary leader locates the former building of the Public Assembly, where once entertained reputable Kargopol merchants: they played roulette and watched the performances of provincial theater.

The ice slightly covered the Onega River. Dark blurs at the river bank are framed by yellow, frosted grass. The silhouette of a fisherman with the long rod is highlighted on the bright background. Judging from his static body posture, the nibble is clearly not coming out. Winter fishing is good in the middle of the river, but the ice is flimsy, walking on it is risky. In early January, when Onega finally freezes, fisherman will take the fisher jig, drill a hole away from the coast and will return home with a bucket full of the catch. Long wooden barn by the ice-free spring is a rinse house, functioning since time immemorial. Clothes, rinsed in clear spring water and dried in the frost, keep the scent of natural freshness for long.

Read More About Arkhangelsk Region...




Author: Anna Dorozhkina

Tags: Kargopol Arkhangelsk region    

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